Oslo, Norway

My first trip of 2024 was a wintry four-day family break in Oslo – a city full of snow, sculptures, and Scandi calm. We had six days technically, but days 1 and 6 were for travelling, so it was really four full days exploring the Norwegian capital. Here's how it all played out.

Day 1: Tuesday – Arrival in Oslo
After a quick flight over, we landed in Oslo in the evening. We had not planned our transfer from the airport, reading that it was easy to do, but I admit this was a mistake. We got a quote for a taxi from the airport to our hotel in the city centre (a 40 minutes journey) and we were quoted £240! I knew Oslo was going to be expensive, but this threw me! Obviously we did not go for this option and instead scouted out the buses, ending up paying a much more reasonable £70 (one way, 4 people) and went online to book a return bus back (we used Tour Express) for the end of our trip. It took a lot longer but was worth it to save the money. Top tip - do NOT use taxis in Oslo! We headed straight to our base for the week, which was Bjorvika Apartments in Teaterplassen. Super central, clean, and spacious. It was late by the time we got in so no faffing about, we dropped the bags and got the kids straight to bed.

Day 2: Wednesday – Illusions, Street Food & Sculpture Trails
We kicked off the day with a pre-booked visit to the Paradox Museum (£50ish entry for 4 of us), just 20 mins’ walk from the apartment. It was well worth booking this in advance as we got to jump the line of those who had not, and ended up being the first in there and having most exhibitions to ourselves. It’s a trippy, interactive space full of optical illusions – great for photos, great for messing with your brain. This one was perfect for my boys, who really enjoyed each part of the museum.

Next, we visited Vigeland Sculpture Park, which was a tram ride away. I must say, the tram system in Oslo is great and the app, Ruter, is super easy to use and plan trips. We relied on this heavily throughout our time in Oslo, each journey averaging out to be around £2. The park itself was different. Bold, emotional, weird in the best way, with over 200 sculptures all by one artist, Gustav Vigeland. It was nice to walk around and see the different sculptures, but the ground was snowy and slushy, meaning it was quite wet and often slippy underfoot. We decided to eat at the cafe in the park, which was lovely but pricey! We had a few sandwiches between us and it cost nearly £50.

We made a quick stop at Haralds Vaffel for a classic Norwegian waffle, the thing the boys were most excited about (okay, and me too!) The waffles were really tasty. I opted for nutella, cream and had it topped with brunost (brown cheese) for the full local experience. Very tasty and the shop is small but super quirky, I would recommend it!

As the light started to fade around 5.30pm, we jumped on a tram to Ekebergparken, a sculpture park with forest paths and open-air art. It was quiet, atmospheric, and felt like a bit of a hidden gem when we stumbled across the viewpoints overlooking the city, lit up at night. The views were stunning and I was so glad we found them. When you walk into the forest here at night, there is a light installation hidden away. It is so cool! The boys loved running around it and it was gorgeous to see! I would highly recommend making the journey for this.

We finished the day at Barcode Street Food, which had a decent mix of options. It is a good good spot if you’re not sure what you fancy, with indoor market vibes and dishes from Korean to Greek. Casual, quick, and ideal for warming up. It felt the right sort of vibe to take two energetic boys who won't sit still and we could order bits from different places to try. I had the best fish tacos there!

Day 3: Thursday – Skiing in the Snow
This day was one that where we dedicated the whole day to skiing, a first for the boys. Oslo makes it surprisingly easy to get out to the slopes. The resort, Skiimore Oslo, was beginner-friendly and perfect for a casual day out. We rented gear on-site and also booked a lesson for the boys, meaning they were more receptive to giving it a go and which meant we were able to go off and 'hit the slopes'. I have not been skiing since I was in high school, so it took me a minute to get going, but I did not fall once and enjoyed the snowy views. It felt like a good mix of people on the slopes, so not being a pro did not make me feel out of place. We met up with the boys after their class and went with them for a bit and I now feel confident that we could do a full skiing trip with them in the future.

We headed back to Barcode Street Food for tea!

Day 4: Friday – Museums or More Slopes
We had a bit of a wildcard day: either more skiing or a slower-paced day, and the latter won. Mostly because of the cost and because the boys were still tired. The good thing about this was we got to have a day where we had zero plans, could just walk the streets of Oslo, find a park for the boys to play in and explore. We saw the presidential palace, Oslo's Tigren, went to chocolate shops and just generally explored.

We did this for the first half of the day and for the second half we grabbed food to make at the apartment and chilled out with a film. Although in one way it made me feel like we should have done a day less on this trip, on the flip side it was really nice to have a day away where we could just chill out and relax fully.

Day 5: Saturday – Boats on the Fjord
We booked a boat trip from Langkaia, near the Opera House, and set sail at 10am for a 90 minutes round trip to see the fjords. Honestly, it was a bit underwhelming. I’d expected dramatic fjord views, but it was more industrial coastline and low-key scenery. Nice to be out on the water, but it dragged a bit and didn’t quite live up to the hype.

We stopped by the Oslo Opera House, one of the city’s most striking buildings with its sleek, modern design. And something I did not know you could do beforehand - you can walk right up the sloping roof for free. It’s a gentle climb which doesn't take too long and gives you brilliant views over the harbour and surrounding city. Even on a grey day, it’s worth the visit just for the architecture and the sense of space.

We had planned to finish our trip with a meal at Seaport Restaurant (Sorenga Quay). It has an amazing location on the water and has a reputation for some of the best seafood in Oslo, however, we changed our minds on this and cancelled last minute! Opting instead for a takeaway at the apartment - cheaper and cosier!

Day 6: Sunday – Time to Head Home
We simply packed up early and made our way to the airport. A smooth end to a lovely little winter break.

Final Thoughts
Oslo’s not a budget destination, but it’s clean, calm, and surprisingly compact – easy to explore in a few days. It has a good mix of nature, art, and good food made and is a good city, but honestly, I was not blown away. Visually, it is quite a grey, drab city and not at all what I expected from Norway. We definitely spent too long here for a city break, even though it did allow us to factor in some chilled downtime, but I still feel like Norway is a country I need to explore further and get out of the city into the true nature of the country! I will be back, just not to Oslo.